Roppongi Hills Bon Odori

 Obon is a 3 day long festival that is celebrated at different times in different regions of Japan, in either July or August. During this time people go and visit their families and pay respect to the spirits of their ancestors by visiting and cleaning their graves. Bon Odori is the dancing and drumming festival that takes place during this period.

We went to the Roppongi Hills Bon Odori on Sunday afternoon and had a great time watching the colourful dancers strutting their stuff.

The view from one level up at Roppongi Hills shopping centre.

The dance instructor showing us the moves.

The drummers were fantastic. Bit hard to see through the decorations.

The food stalls and beer gardens were a hit, if not a bit pricey. Not surprising considering the neighbourhood.

The oldies and the kids were all having a ball.

Lots of pretty yukatas.

Nice way to spend an afternoon or evening. The Friday evening was food stalls only, Saturday and Sunday food stalls from 3pm till 9pm and drumming/dancing between 5pm and 8pm. Held on 2nd last weekend in August every year.

Tamagawa Hanabi

Fireworks are a big deal in Japan. There are thousands of firework displays to choose from during Summer from mid July till the end of August. Here is a handy calender to some of the more popular events - Hanabi Calender. People get dressed up in traditional clothing and take picnics down to watch the fun.

On Saturday we went to the Tamagawa Hanabi, along the river near Futako Tamagawa station (Denentoshi line) about 15 minutes from Shibuya station. The Tamagawa Hanabi is a fireworks competition along the river between two rival cities. This year it was Kawasaki City vs. Setagaya.

Getting dressed in our yukata and jinbei, ready for some summer festival time.

 
 We arrived at about 3:30pm and found a spot to settle in for the evening. With our blue tarps, beers and snacks we were all sorted.

The crowds arriving in the afternoon, getting ready for the fireworks show from 7pm till 8pm.

Bit of last minute hairdressing by the young girls sitting in front of us.

And once the fireworks began, they were pretty spectacular. Excuse the blurry shots, I only had my camera phone with me.

I was impressed at how well organized and well behaved it was. (I know, I know, I should know better by now, it is Japan after all!) Considering the size of the crowd it was surprisingly easy to wait about 45 minutes till after the fireworks had finished, good time to finish of the remaining beers, and then walk up to the train station. 

We got straight onto a train, it was pretty squishy but not unbearable and were home again in less than an hour. (Or for some of our more energetic friends, they dropped their stuff home and went onto the nightclubs and stayed out till 6am). Good time had by all. Just wish they had a few more portaloos, half hour wait was a bit of killer.

Yukata what? Buying a summer kimono in Tokyo

So I was a bit hesitant to go out and buy a yukata. I thought I would look like a tryhard gaijin knob. I know I am nowhere near as elegant or glamorous as the Japanese ladies. And food tends to attach itself to my clothing no matter how hard I try to manoeuvre it directly to my pie hole, which is probably not a good look for the crisp, clean lines of a yukata. But then I kept seeing all these gorgeous colours and patterns and I decided what the hell? You only live once and all that.

We are also going to watch fireworks (hanabi) in a couple of weeks with a bunch of mates and I know most people would be out and about in their yukatas. The summer kimono is worn outdoors from mid June till the end of August, especially at hanabi, summer festivals and beer gardens. It is also worn during the rest of the year indoors after you have had a soak in the onsen. The word Yukata translates as 'bath clothes'.

After reading a few online guides such as Yukata shopping for Hanabi season I headed to the Marui City (O1O1) department store in Shibuya. This decision was pretty much based on pure laziness. I couldn't be bothered shopping around for second hand bargains or attempting to use my awful Japanese on some poor shop assistant. So I went along to the department store and found English speaking staff with no problemo.

Now, to be honest, I could have probably found a better bargain but I really just wanted a basic, easy to wear, all cotton yukata set. The department store lady informed that they only sell yukatas till the end of August and then they switch over to heavier kimonoes for autumn and winter, so I was really down to my last opportunity to snap one up. There wasn't really a heap of larger size options left, being the end of the season and all. I liked how they label their yukatas, small, medium and tall. Who wants to be a size large when you can be a size tall? (For the record, I'm 5 foot 7, not usually considered Tall by Australian standards).

After explaining to the helpful assistant about my issues with food vs clothes, we rejected the white based options and selected a few of the darker coloured styles to try on. I ended up with this cute flower/goldfish pattern.

And the set I chose came with a red obi belt and bow.

The beauty of buying this type of yukata set is that it designed to be easier to wear and put on than the regular kind. The obi belt has velcro and is pre folded. The yukata itself has the inner sashes already attached so there is no need to tie, fold or tuck they way the traditional version requires. Despite being the simpler version, it still comes with a lengthy list of instructions.

I also bought a small red hair ornament but I skipped the traditional wooden sandals, at $80 a pop I thought I could get away with something cheaper elsewhere. You can also buy cotton shifts to wear underneath the yukata but other people had told me to skip those as well and just wear a cotton t-shirt and leggings underneath. Other add on items include bamboo purses or handbags, paper fans with bamboo handles and decorative strings and charms to go around your obi belts. Having already spent close to $200 on the yukata/obi belt & hair ornament I decided to skip all the extras and stick to the basics.

I made it home and attempted to dress myself as easily as the shop assistant had managed. Hmmm.... didn't quite work out as neatly as she had done it but with the help of some youtube videos and a few long stares at the instructions sheets I managed to get myself yukataed up.

Ta da! That's me waiting at the door with a beer for Chris, like the shop assistant told me I should. I gave up waiting after awhile and drank it myself. Just as well because he didn't get home till about 5 hours later....

PS Ended up getting these geta from Donki's (discount department store) for about $18. They also had clearance rack of men's and women's yukata sets for as low as $50.

Also did some present shopping at Oriental Bazaar on Omotesando and they had a range of cheap to mid level price ranged yukatas on the basement level as well as gorgeous second hand antique kimonos on the 2nd floor.

PPS So turns out I had my yukata tucked in the wrong way in that photo above, should be tucked right side underneath, left side on top. The way I had it was they way you dress dead people for their funerals! Whoops! Only found out this information after I had been wearing my yukata in public for about 6 hours. Had wondered why so many people asked me who had dressed me.

Shinbashi Koichi Festival - party time for all age groups!

Do you know what I love about festivals in Japan? Everyone gets a little crazy! People dance, they drink, they dress up, they talk to overheated, red faced gaijin while  they wear long sleeves and beanies in 70% humidity and don't appear to even break a drop of sweat themselves.

We went to the Shinbashi Koichi festival on Friday night and there was something there for everyone. Despite it being stinking hot and forgetting my hand towel to wipe off the rivers of sweat pouring off my forehead, we had a fantastic time. The festival is on the last Thursday and Friday of July each year.

Some of the food stall around SL plaza, Shinbashi train station.

We grabbed a couple of cans of beer and watched the start of the Yukata Beauty contest which kicked off at 6:30pm. 

 

The winner walks away with ¥100,000 and a four-night trip to Hawaii. Not bad for looking pretty in a kimono and answering a few questions about yourself.

Next up we bought drinks from this guy offering free hugs.

Ate some delicious seafood and other assorted yakitori delights.

Laughed at drunk salarymen testing out motorbikes and cycling video games.

Wandered through the area where kids were enjoying themselves at the carnival games.

Had some delicious Kirin beers with frozen heads.

Watched some awesome silver foxes get stuck into the dancing.

Bon Odori is a Japanese style of dancing to honor the spirits of one's ancestors. The style of dancing and the music used for Bon Odori is unique to different regions. There is usually a wooden stage  called  a yagura, set up for the musicians and singers. Everyone else dances in a clockwise direction around the stage.  Taiko drumming and Bon Odori dancing takes place on both festival days.

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We made friends with this crazy guy and his mates gave us boiled eggs and edamame and one of them bought Chris a beer while I was trying to learn the dance moves around the stage area.

The drummer and his protege were amazing too.

After a few hours of dancing, drinking, eating and drumming, the winners of the beauty contest were announced.

After one last photo with our new best friends, Chris finally dragged me away from the dancing and off home (via one last drink stop at Craft Beer market).

Iris season at Meiji Shrine with a splash of bonsai & turtles

This afternoon I dragged my sweaty self away from the apartment for a walk to Meiji shrine. The ladies at volunteering had all been raving about the irises in bloom at Meiji Gyoen, the inner garden at the shrine. I paid my 500 yen entry fee for the garden (the shrine area is free entry) and went to see what all the fuss was about. On my way to the iris flower beds, I followed the path markers via the south pond where I spotted a cute little turtle amongst the koi.

As I wandered along the meandering path enjoying the shade, I started to feel pretty zen. It is pretty amazing that such a huge, green park area is here right in the middle of Tokyo next to the madness that is Harajuku. Following the many grey nomads, I began to see flashes of purple and white flower heads poking through the foliage.

I'd made it to the famous Iris garden and I had to admit it was pretty gorgeous.

 I can see why Empress Shoken was impressed when Emperor Meiji designed these gardens for her, supposedly to give her fresh energy.

I definitely felt like I had more energy after having a rest and enjoying these surroundings.

After the iris garden I wandered through one of the gates into the main shrine area.

When visiting Shinto shrines you need to purify yourself before entering the main shrine area. At the Temizuya (the font) you rinse your left hand with a scoop of water and then rinse your right hand, pour water into your left hand and use it to rinse your mouth, spitting it out into the side of the font, then rinse your left hand again and rinse out the scooper.

If you want to offer up a prayer at the main shrine building, you throw some coins in the offertory box, bow twice, clap your hands twice & bow one more time.

If you are feeling particularly religious you can also write a prayer with a small donation or for 500 yen you can buy an ema (votive tablet) to hang up.

Even the cool kids were up for a votive tablet.

Next to the prayer area I was pretty pumped to see a display of bonsai, according to the sign it was a display of masterpieces. I think the sign was spot on. Unfotunatley they are only on display until June 15th.

Azalea bonsai, who knew that was possible?

Other random stuff I like at this shrine;

cool doors,

cool trees,

wine barrels,

sake barrels,

and lush, green, forresty paths in the middle of the city!