Ryokans - not for everyone, especially not klutzes

A last minute decision to travel to Takayama left me with limited accommodation options. I didn't want anything too expensive as I was travelling on my own but I wanted something close to town so I could walk to all the sights easily. Takayama is a traditional old town in a picturesque mountain area with many onsen nearby so it it not surprising I ended up in a ryokan.

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. I stayed at a ryokan call Yado Matsui, a cheaper style ryokan at 4,500 yen a night per person. Ryokans can get very expensive depending on where they are located, whether they have private gardens, natural spring onsens and the standard of the meals they provide.

 The entrance, shoes off everybody!

Rooms in ryokans are made using tatami mats and sliding doors. Bathrooms are shared, some have private toilets The beds are futons on the floors with pillows filled with buckwheat or beans. Usually dinner or breakfast is included, depending on your package selection. I opted to skip the breakfast add on at 1,000 yen. Pickles and miso in the morning just ain't my thing!

I understand the appeal of trying out the traditional style accomodation and the owner was very friendly despite the language barrier but these places just aren't my cup of tea. I try to follow the etiquette and I remembered to take off my shoes at the door. But when the owner was showing me my room, I stepped onto the tatami mat with my rubber slippers still on. Big no, no! I apologized profusely but the pain in her eyes is still brutally clear to me, even now, days later.

When it was time to use the shared bathroom late at night, I tried to walk on the balls of my feet. I attempted to slip quietly down the stairs. I urged myself to be silent as a ninja as I tiptoed into the bathroom for my midnight tinkle but it was not to be. The sliding door rattled, the steps squeaked even when I thought I had avoided the soft spot. One rubber shoe slid off and bounced along the hallway. It was no good, I am no ninja, I am no dignified yukata wearing local, I am just a western klutz, out of my natural habitat.

I returned to my bed and tried to beat my buckwheat pillow into something more comfortable. I rolled onto one side and then the other, eventually falling asleep. The next morning I was woken by sunlight blasting through the crack in the curtains and the sounds of my ryokan neighbour coughing up something from deep within his lungs.

After a nice hot shower downstairs, I dried off as best I could with my teeny tiny towel. I ate some breakfast at the low table in my room and went to brush my teeth in the pair of sinks in the hallway next to my room. Halfway through my teeth brushing, my phlegmy neighbour joined me, he attempted to make some conversation in Japanese and then proceeded to continue coughing up whatever he had swallowed last century into the adjoining sink.

In the end, you get what you pay for. This was budget accommodation and it was close to everything I wanted to see, it did the job.  Just be aware, if you want to stay at a ryokan, maybe just try it out for a night or two and see if you like it rather than booking it for a week or something crazy.

Kyoto - Mt Daimonji hike

Day 5 - I caught the No. 100 bus back to Ginkaku-ji and found the start of the hiking trail to Mt Daimonji as described here Hiking in Kyoto: Daimonji

It was a pretty easy half hour up, hot and humid being summer and all but the oldies weren't breaking a drop of sweat, unlike me.

 The views up top were amazing.

 In this photo you can see one of the fire pits they use for the festival on August 16th, where several bonfires are lit at the end of Obon. They can be seen from across Kyoto.

Saw some pretty cool fungi on the trail too.

Another 20 minutes or so back down and then back onto the No.100 bus to Kyoto station. Nice half day before heading back home to Tokyo.

Going Loco in Kyoto

There is something about travelling alone that makes my brain go a little haywire. I usually reach a point of fatigue after about 3 days in any new city. I get on such a high from being somewhere new that I burn up heaps of energy running around like a headless chicken on the first couple of days. By Day 3 I'm getting a little burnout, my concentration is waning and I start to lose the ability to function properly. Usually at this point Chris would sensibly call for a rest day and we would have a chill out day in a pub or just do a half day activity. But when I'm on my own I keep pushing myself along until sh*t starts to break down mofo. I don't stop for lunch cause I get bored eating alone so I pack a few snacks and push on through and this is when trouble can start.

Except, today, the trouble started first thing in the morning. It began with locking my keys in the hotel room. I heard the door click as I walked towards the lift and I realized with a sinking feeling what I had done. No biggie. I would just go down to reception and get them to let me back in. Except it took a whole lot of miming and hand signals to get my message across. I knew the word for key but do you think I could remember the Japanese for door or locked? The poor guy at the desk was completely confused and didn't speak much English. I'm not sure if it was miming a key turning in the door or my very lifelike door slamming sound effects but we got there in the end.

Key retrieved, I walked to the bus station and purchased my all day ticket. Validated it as I got off the bus and I was on my way to another awesome day of Kyoto tourist hopping.

Next brain freeze came when I was up to my third shrine for the day and I realized I had walked out of the bathroom and back along the temple tatami mats still wearing the toilet slippers. How embarrassing! Lucky I noticed before anyone else spotted my faux pas.

Next up, I attempted to follow Lonely Planet's instructions to Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in. "Follow the path that runs parallel to the aqueduct up into the hills until you reach a waterfall in a beautiful mountain glen." So I found the aqueduct, no problem.

I found the path running parallel, so off I went with my bright orange umbrella in the rain. Walking along, still walking... where is this bloody waterfall? Eventually I reach the end of the path and realize I am at some sort of aqueduct station.

Hmmm... my tired, hungry brain tells me. This doesn't look right. But look if you walk across those skinny metal beams to the other side, there is a path, maybe that leads to this magic waterfall. Sure says my tired, hungry body, let's do what brain says.  Ok feet, don't let us fall in there because that would be bad and we would get all wet. At this point, Chris would say, stop talking to yourself, you nutter, let's turn around and go back. Clearly this is not the path to the magic lonely planet waterfall. But I am on my own and I am stubborn. So I forge ahead.

I tiptoe across like a tightrope walker holding my ridiculous orange umbrella, (Reminds me of another brain freeze experience, walking through the catholic section of Northern Ireland with my Australian flag umbrella with its giant Union Jack emblazoned for all to see. But that's another story...) And I walk around the corner to this rather official looking building and a bunch of locked gates.

Finally my brain and my body decide to work together and I hightail it out of there back along the path with my orange umbrella. Screw you waterfall and screw you Lonely Planet.

I make it back to where I started and see a bunch more people headed up the same path I just took. Do I call out to them? Do I warn them with my bad miming and sign language? No I bugger off and keep looking for the damn waterfall path. Why oh why, won't my stubborn brain let it go?

But back here at the very start, I find a path, this could be it!

But what does it lead to? A locked freakin gate!

As tempted as I am to leap over the gate, I restrain myself and make do with a photo of the waterfall on a sign I find back at the bottom of the hill.

Is that the magic waterfall? Was it hiding behind that rather short locked gate? I guess I will never know. By now, I am really tired and really hungry and am totally wanting Mos burger. So I head for the bus stop and join the queue of people heading back to Kyoto station.

My brain tells me to find my bus ticket before I get on the bus. Oh crap, can't find it. Tell me brain, where is it? I pull out the entire contents of my bag while the people in the queue look a bit shocked and start shuffling away from the crazy lady dumping her stuff all over the footpath.

Nope, no sign of bus ticket. And I know I used my last bit of change on the gardens before the aqueduct disaster. No change and no shops in sight. (Kyoto buses don't give change, each ride is 230 yen or 500 yen for a daily bus pass)

 I consider using yesterdays daily bus pass. Yes, that's right, I have yesterdays ticket in my bag, but not today's. Murphy's Law or something.

Nope that plan isn't going to work because today is a new month. D'oh. Can't even put my finger over the first part of the date like I used to on the bus in London.

That's cool. I'll just walk back to Kyoto station. 5.4km, 1 hour 5 minutes walk according to Google maps. No problem.

Guess how long that idea lasted? About the 20 minutes it took me to walk past a convenience store, duck inside, buy a sandwich and a bag of donuts and get some change for the bus.

Sweet, making my way down the street, breaking all the rules by eating and walking at the same time. Take that Japan, you have a rule breaker right here. Then I find a bus stop. Winner! I check the change in my pocket...still haven't got the right coins. D'oh! Keep walking.... find a vending machine. Hooray! I have the right change and a sugary drink, life is good again.

I get on the bus, its packed. But everyone is standing around while there are two empty disabled seats. Watch out, here comes the rule breaker again. I push my way through the polite locals and land my butt in the too small chair. Ah sweet relief, I am off my feet and on my way back to the hotel. Time for a brain recharge and a GIANT dinner. Let's hope I survive the next two days without going too loco.

The leaflets and bits of info collected from today's attractions, no wonder I couldn't find my bus ticket!

Roppongi Hills Bon Odori

 Obon is a 3 day long festival that is celebrated at different times in different regions of Japan, in either July or August. During this time people go and visit their families and pay respect to the spirits of their ancestors by visiting and cleaning their graves. Bon Odori is the dancing and drumming festival that takes place during this period.

We went to the Roppongi Hills Bon Odori on Sunday afternoon and had a great time watching the colourful dancers strutting their stuff.

The view from one level up at Roppongi Hills shopping centre.

The dance instructor showing us the moves.

The drummers were fantastic. Bit hard to see through the decorations.

The food stalls and beer gardens were a hit, if not a bit pricey. Not surprising considering the neighbourhood.

The oldies and the kids were all having a ball.

Lots of pretty yukatas.

Nice way to spend an afternoon or evening. The Friday evening was food stalls only, Saturday and Sunday food stalls from 3pm till 9pm and drumming/dancing between 5pm and 8pm. Held on 2nd last weekend in August every year.

Tamagawa Hanabi

Fireworks are a big deal in Japan. There are thousands of firework displays to choose from during Summer from mid July till the end of August. Here is a handy calender to some of the more popular events - Hanabi Calender. People get dressed up in traditional clothing and take picnics down to watch the fun.

On Saturday we went to the Tamagawa Hanabi, along the river near Futako Tamagawa station (Denentoshi line) about 15 minutes from Shibuya station. The Tamagawa Hanabi is a fireworks competition along the river between two rival cities. This year it was Kawasaki City vs. Setagaya.

Getting dressed in our yukata and jinbei, ready for some summer festival time.

 
 We arrived at about 3:30pm and found a spot to settle in for the evening. With our blue tarps, beers and snacks we were all sorted.

The crowds arriving in the afternoon, getting ready for the fireworks show from 7pm till 8pm.

Bit of last minute hairdressing by the young girls sitting in front of us.

And once the fireworks began, they were pretty spectacular. Excuse the blurry shots, I only had my camera phone with me.

I was impressed at how well organized and well behaved it was. (I know, I know, I should know better by now, it is Japan after all!) Considering the size of the crowd it was surprisingly easy to wait about 45 minutes till after the fireworks had finished, good time to finish of the remaining beers, and then walk up to the train station. 

We got straight onto a train, it was pretty squishy but not unbearable and were home again in less than an hour. (Or for some of our more energetic friends, they dropped their stuff home and went onto the nightclubs and stayed out till 6am). Good time had by all. Just wish they had a few more portaloos, half hour wait was a bit of killer.

Forget Disney, Fuji-Q is where the big kid rides are at!

Best way to hit up Fuji-Q is to reserve a bus seat online and get the  Toku-Q Pack. It costs 7,300 yen and gets you return bus tickets from Shinjuku West bus station to Fuji-Q and a day pass which gives you unlimited rides for the day. You just reserve your seat online, payment for your ticket is when you turn up at the Keio bus ticket office.

Finding the Keio ticket office can be a bit tricky. I had to ask a couple of people for directions. You come out of the Shinjuku station west exit and the ticket office is  between Yodobashi and the Keio department store. The buses out to Fuji-Q do fill up so it is best to reserve your seats at least a couple of days ahead.  The bus rides takes an hour and 40 minutes.

Just be aware that they do seem to close the theme park on random days. We had reserved seats on the bus for last Tuesday but when we turned up at the ticket office there was a big sign up saying Fuji-Q closed for the day. There is a calender showing the closed days but it is only on the Japanese version of the Fuji-Q website. The slightest bit of rain also means the majority of rides get stopped so you might want to keep that in mind during the rainy season.

Once you arrive the fun begins! These roller-coasters are not for the faint hearted. Or for anyone with any of the many, many ailments they list while you wait in the queue. You can't be too old either, all the rides have age limits, some of which are 59. So sorry Mum & Dad, you guys are out.

We hit up Fujiyama first, mainly because it is the first one on your left after you get through the entry gate. Probably not the best move as it was also the longest wait we had for the day, 50 minutes. Better idea would be to head to the back of the park and make your way back towards the entry gate and skip some of the queues.

Fujiyama was my favourite ride of the day. It is long, it is fast and it has a 70m drop. As the crank the ride slowly up the steepest section, my palms were sweating, I felt slightly sick and I started questioning my own sanity. I had my eyes squeezed shut for most of the descent but man what a rush!

Everyone looks a little dishevelled at the end of the ride. 

Next we conquered Takabisha, the roller-coaster with the steepest drop in the world, a 121 degree tilt. I was very surprised that I got off this ride without losing my dignity. I have never felt fear on a ride like I did on this one. I can't believe this ride is in the same country as the lame ones at DisneySea. Its like going for a spin in my 1976 Datsun and then being taken round the Nuburgring in a Porsche 911.

I feel justified in nearly turning my trousers brown, its in the Guinness book of records. It is officially scary. 

Next up we went on Dodonpa, one hell of a fast roller-coaster. It hits 172km/hr at 1.8 seconds after the ride starts. Reminded me of the super man ride at Movie World, Gold Coast. Think it has the same G force, at 4.25. Awesome stuff.

Unfortunately, the last of the big 4 roller-coasters was not open. Eejanaika has 14 rolls and you have to take your shoes off to ride it. Will have to go back and try that one!!

After some Mos burger for lunch we checked out some of the tamer rides. It was pretty hot and humid so we thought we would go on a water ride. We were pretty amused to see everyone shelling out an extra 100 yen to buy ponchos to wear on the ride. What is the point of going on a water themed ride to stay dry?

Well, they all had the last laugh because we got soaked!! Good excuse to have an ice cream while we dried off.

No other rides really deserve a special mention unless you are into the anime Evangelion. They have a pretty cool display of stuff from the series you can pose for cheesy photos with.

Oh yeah, going on the little kid roller-coaster 'A little ride on the clouds' was pretty funny too. Mainly because the ride was designed for an adult to sit with a kid being held in front. No-one in the queue had a kid with them but we were all still told to get on the ride 2 by 2. Watching two blokes squeeze onto a ride together and cuddle was one of the funnier sights of the day. Awkward giggles all round.

Oh yeah, token photo of Mt Fuji from the bus stop. Only time she popped out of the mist for us.

Useful apps and websites for Japan visits

These are the apps and websites that are saving my life at the moment.

 Japanese Pro
Japanese Pro by Codegent, free version available called Learn Japanese Phrasebook but I went for the upgrade version which cost $4.99.For the Pro version you get extra topic areas and more phrases under each topic area. There are 20 topics in all.

I have found the general conversation and menu options the most useful but the dating and tongue twister sections are the funniest.

Here is a sample from the dating section:

You click on the phrase you want to say and it will play it for you in Japanese.

I have played a few of the phrases to people at volunteering and at restaurants. It seems to work well but I'm not sure about dating someone via a language app or proposing marriage, apparently you ask someone to marry you by saying "Kekkon shitekuremasenka" handily listed above "Denwa shitekonaide" which means "Stop calling me".

Japan Travel

As I spend a lot of time wandering around by myself or trying to find Chris in tiny craft beer bars, this app has been a lifesaver.

 Also very helpful to find free wif-fi spots, nearby tourist attractions and the like.

If you click on 'Free Wi-Fi Spots' it will show you a list of locations and how far away they are. (There is also free wi-fi at the metro and JR train stations but you will need to register on their site with an email address.)

 If you click on 'Must See' it will show you interesting places nearby and when you select one it will drop a pin on the map to show you where they area.

Or if you are looking for a particular store, click on 'Search Around Me' and boom it will show you the closest convenience stores, train stations, ATM's etc. (Note that only 7 11 stores and Citibank will accept western style bank cards. Japanese banks and ATM's can't process them.)

If you click on 'Transit search' on the blue box on the homepage and enter the stations you want to travel to and from, it will show you the different options, including number of line changes, how long it will take and the cost of the train ticket.

When you click on your preferred option it will also tell you the weather. (I think the umbrella with a sun, means sunny with some showers?)

And if you need to change train lines it will tell you the best carriage to get on to be closest to the correct exit when you need to change lines. For the option below, you should get on carriage 6 on the Hibiya line to be closest to the exit for the JR line you need to switch to at Ebisu station.

All these options are available on the free version. The upgrade version gets you voice navigation, service status notifications and a current station list which tracks which station you are at but it will cost you $7.99 for 7 days, $16.99 for 30 days or $59.99 for a year. The upgrade cost seems a bit of a ripoff considering you can use google maps for voice navigation if you really need it, I guess the catch is you need wifi for google maps whereas you don't need internet connection to use this app, you only need  the GPS switched on through your phone.

Japan-Guide.com

www.japan-guide.com 

Excellent website that has information about everything you could possibly wish to know about travelling & living in Japan. Has been a very helpful reference tool for us when buying sumo tickets, looking up train timetables,festival calenders etc.

Japan - the official guide

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/

This website is the Japan National Tourism website, so lots of advertising as you would expect.
But it also has lots of gorgeous photos which I can spend hours pouring over and the suggested itineraries are helpful when planning trips outside of Tokyo.

Time Out Tokyo

http://www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo

This website is great if you want to check out what is happening on any given week in Tokyo.
I particularly like the 'Things to do this week' section. Very helpful if you have spare time on your hands and want to see something different like an exhibition or a festival.