Friday, 5 September 2014

Nara - deer, shrines & a giant Buddha

Day 4 - Nara is an easy day trip from Kyoto. The JR express train takes 45 minutes and costs 710 yen. The express train leaves every 30 minutes. The JR Nara station is an easy, flat 20 minute walk to Nara Park where most of the sights are located.

The deer a big thing in Nara. For 150 yen you can buy a pack of deer biscuits to feed them with. I wasn't that keen to feed them. 

Maybe it was this sign that put me off?


My first stop was Yoshikien gardens, free entry for foreigners, whoo hoo.
Had a nice stroll around here for half an hour or so then walked to Todai-ji, the temple which houses the Giant Buddha. 500 yen entry.

The Daibatsu is pretty impressive, 14.98m tall, 500 tonnes. And I liked the giant guardians and the gate and inside the temple as well.



If you feel like seeking enlightenment, try and squeeze through this pillar hole, 50cm wide, same as one of the Daibatsu's nostrils. Guaranteed enlightenment if make it through.

After this I walked up the hill to Nigatsu-do. More awesome views up here.
Then I wandered around some more of the park area and made my way to Kasuga Taisha shrine. Free entry. About 2,000 stone lanterns line the pathway.

Wakamiya-jinja. is one of the sub temples in the shrine area. Wouldn't bother with the entry fee, wasn't too much to see inside the small temple buildings.


Did a spot of shopping along the arcades on the way back to the station. Oh yeah and I saw a deer using the zebra crossing. Too funny.






Kyoto - Northern Higashiyama

Day 3, Bus 100 from Kyoto station to Ginkaku-ji, a World Heritage listed Zen Buddhist temple.500 yen entry. The name translates to silver pavilion but the shogun who built it never got to realize this dream. It is one of the most popular sights in Kyoto but it is worth squeezing through the crowds to check it out.


A 10 minute walk from Ginkaku-ji and I stopped in at Honen-in. The temple buildings were not open on the day I went, apparantly they only rarely open to the public. It had some nice gardens but if you are in a rush I would skip this one. It is free entry.

From Honen-in I walked along the Tetsugaku-no-Michi (Path of Philosophy) which was stunning.

This half hour walk brings you to Eikando Zenrin-ji. Put this place on your to do list. Spectacular buildings and gardens.

These are the sleeping dragon stairs leading to the back of the temple complex.

Another 10 minute walk brings you to Nanzen-ji. I think I was too tired by this point to appreciate this temple that is known as one of the finest temples in Tokyo. Probably also had something to do with the walk I attempted see, earlier post Going Loco in Kyoto. 

There is a very impressive gate at the entry of the temple complex which you can climb for a fee of 400 yen but I felt like I had seen enough view of Kyoto for one day so I skipped that. I went up past the aqueduct and to the gardens of Nanzen-in. 300 yen entry fee. The gardens were quiet small but worth a look.


Next I went to the famous Hojo gardens and temple area, surprisingly I almost had this place to myself. 500 yen entry. Some beautiful screen paintings inside the temple but I don't really dig the combed sand and rocks so much. Still worth a look.


I caught the No.5 bus back to Kyoto station from the main road, about 10 minutes walk from the main gate.

Kyoto - Arashiyama & Sagano

On Day 2, I caught the No.11 Bus from Kyoto station and got off at the Tenryu-ji mae bus stop. At Tenryu-ji I skipped the buildings and went for the garden entry fee of 500 yen.The zen garden is the main attraction here and it was pretty but not amazing.


If you leave the gardens by the north gate you will walk through the Bamboo forest. The bamboo is pretty awesome but it is only a short walk through the forest, I somehow pictured it a lot bigger.

When you pop out the other side, its a 10 minute walk to Jojakko-ji. This Buddhist temple was one of my favourites. 400 yen entry. Great views from the top of the temple area behind the pagoda.Gorgeous mossy lanterns and maple trees. Loved it.



Next stop was a short walk away, Nison-in. This place was a bit underwhelming. In fact I walked right past it a couple of time before I realised it was behind the scaffolding.

The maple trees are supposed to look amazing in Autumn but I would skip it otherwise.

Another 10 minute walk and I was at Gio-ji. 300 yen entry. Only a small temple area but stunning mossy gardens that photos just don't capture properly. It was like being in a fairytale grove. Put it on your list if you are in the area.

From here I walked back towards the bamboo forest and followed the walking track down the hill to Kameyama-koen. This is a park where people come to kick back and go for a paddle on the water or go shopping along the main street.


Again, the leaves are supposed to look fabulous in Autumn but the water was green and gorgeous while I was there at end of August too. I caught the No. 28 bus back to Kyoto station from the stop on the far side of the bridge from the shops. Some kind lady pointed out that the stop I was standing at in the main street was not a bus stop on the weekends.




Kyoto - Southern Higashiyama

As previously mentioned, Kyoto has an amazing number of places to visit. Here are a few that I visited on my second trip. This time I was lucky enough to have 5 days to soak up some of the awesomeness. I spent 3 days in Kyoto, did a day trip to Nara and on my last day did a short hike up Mt Daimonji.

On Day 1 I headed to Southern Higashiyama, catching the 206 bus from Kyoto station. First stop was Shoren-in. Buddhist temple, 500 yen entry. This was one of my favourite places of the whole trip. Gorgeous gardens and stunning sliding screens with paintings from the 16th & 17th centuries. I got there at about 9:30am and had the place to myself for about half an hour.



A five minute walk down the road and I was at Chion-in. I walked around the outer buildings and gardens here. The main hall is under reconstruction and there was a worship service going on so I decided to skip the 300 yen entry to the inner building and garden. Lots more people wandering around this temple precinct, not surprising as it is the headquarters of the Jodo sect, the most popular form of Buddhism in Japan. Also has the largest temple gate in Japan which you enter before you make your way up the hill to the main buildings. 

Next I walked another 5 minutes to the north eastern corner of Mauyama-koen. This park is a pretty great spot to stop and have some food and people watch. I saw a wedding photo shoot, people feeding fish in the pond, cyclists, tourists, locals...


Down the hill from the park I wandered through Yasaka-jinja, also known as Gion-san and then onto the backstreets of Gion where I spotted a junior geisha.

Final stop for the day was Nishiki markets where I joined the throngs checking out the tasty food, drinks and souvenirs on offer. I walked from Gion, took about 20 minutes from the main shopping street, Shimbashi.



Bus 206 back to Kyoto station and some tasty food from the Porta restaurant area before passing out at the hotel.




Monday, 1 September 2014

Going Loco in Kyoto

There is something about travelling alone that makes my brain go a little haywire. I usually reach a point of fatigue after about 3 days in any new city. I get on such a high from being somewhere new that I burn up heaps of energy running around like a headless chicken on the first couple of days. By Day 3 I'm getting a little burnout, my concentration is waning and I start to lose the ability to function properly. Usually at this point Chris would sensibly call for a rest day and we would have a chill out day in a pub or just do a half day activity. But when I'm on my own I keep pushing myself along until sh*t starts to break down mofo. I don't stop for lunch cause I get bored eating alone so I pack a few snacks and push on through and this is when trouble can start.

Except, today, the trouble started first thing in the morning. It began with locking my keys in the hotel room. I heard the door click as I walked towards the lift and I realized with a sinking feeling what I had done. No biggie. I would just go down to reception and get them to let me back in. Except it took a whole lot of miming and hand signals to get my message across. I knew the word for key but do you think I could remember the Japanese for door or locked? The poor guy at the desk was completely confused and didn't speak much English. I'm not sure if it was miming a key turning in the door or my very lifelike door slamming sound effects but we got there in the end.


Key retrieved, I walked to the bus station and purchased my all day ticket. Validated it as I got off the bus and I was on my way to another awesome day of Kyoto tourist hopping.


Next brain freeze came when I was up to my third shrine for the day and I realized I had walked out of the bathroom and back along the temple tatami mats still wearing the toilet slippers. How embarrassing! Lucky I noticed before anyone else spotted my faux pas.

Next up, I attempted to follow Lonely Planet's instructions to Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in. "Follow the path that runs parallel to the aqueduct up into the hills until you reach a waterfall in a beautiful mountain glen." So I found the aqueduct, no problem.

I found the path running parallel, so off I went with my bright orange umbrella in the rain. Walking along, still walking... where is this bloody waterfall? Eventually I reach the end of the path and realize I am at some sort of aqueduct station.

Hmmm... my tired, hungry brain tells me. This doesn't look right. But look if you walk across those skinny metal beams to the other side, there is a path, maybe that leads to this magic waterfall. Sure says my tired, hungry body, let's do what brain says.  Ok feet, don't let us fall in there because that would be bad and we would get all wet. At this point, Chris would say, stop talking to yourself, you nutter, let's turn around and go back. Clearly this is not the path to the magic lonely planet waterfall. But I am on my own and I am stubborn. So I forge ahead.


I tiptoe across like a tightrope walker holding my ridiculous orange umbrella, (Reminds me of another brain freeze experience, walking through the catholic section of Northern Ireland with my Australian flag umbrella with its giant Union Jack emblazoned for all to see. But that's another story...) And I walk around the corner to this rather official looking building and a bunch of locked gates.

Finally my brain and my body decide to work together and I hightail it out of there back along the path with my orange umbrella. Screw you waterfall and screw you Lonely Planet.

I make it back to where I started and see a bunch more people headed up the same path I just took. Do I call out to them? Do I warn them with my bad miming and sign language? No I bugger off and keep looking for the damn waterfall path. Why oh why, won't my stubborn brain let it go?

But back here at the very start, I find a path, this could be it!

But what does it lead to? A locked freakin gate!

As tempted as I am to leap over the gate, I restrain myself and make do with a photo of the waterfall on a sign I find back at the bottom of the hill.

Is that the magic waterfall? Was it hiding behind that rather short locked gate? I guess I will never know. By now, I am really tired and really hungry and am totally wanting Mos burger. So I head for the bus stop and join the queue of people heading back to Kyoto station.

My brain tells me to find my bus ticket before I get on the bus. Oh crap, can't find it. Tell me brain, where is it? I pull out the entire contents of my bag while the people in the queue look a bit shocked and start shuffling away from the crazy lady dumping her stuff all over the footpath.

Nope, no sign of bus ticket. And I know I used my last bit of change on the gardens before the aqueduct disaster. No change and no shops in sight. (Kyoto buses don't give change, each ride is 230 yen or 500 yen for a daily bus pass)

 I consider using yesterdays daily bus pass. Yes, that's right, I have yesterdays ticket in my bag, but not today's. Murphy's Law or something.

Nope that plan isn't going to work because today is a new month. D'oh. Can't even put my finger over the first part of the date like I used to on the bus in London.

That's cool. I'll just walk back to Kyoto station. 5.4km, 1 hour 5 minutes walk according to Google maps. No problem.

Guess how long that idea lasted? About the 20 minutes it took me to walk past a convenience store, duck inside, buy a sandwich and a bag of donuts and get some change for the bus.

Sweet, making my way down the street, breaking all the rules by eating and walking at the same time. Take that Japan, you have a rule breaker right here. Then I find a bus stop. Winner! I check the change in my pocket...still haven't got the right coins. D'oh! Keep walking.... find a vending machine. Hooray! I have the right change and a sugary drink, life is good again.

I get on the bus, its packed. But everyone is standing around while there are two empty disabled seats. Watch out, here comes the rule breaker again. I push my way through the polite locals and land my butt in the too small chair. Ah sweet relief, I am off my feet and on my way back to the hotel. Time for a brain recharge and a GIANT dinner. Let's hope I survive the next two days without going too loco.

The leaflets and bits of info collected from today's attractions, no wonder I couldn't find my bus ticket!